I find spending a bit more on batteries goes along way. Although the nominal voltage and size may be the same, better batteries have lower internal resistance, ie provide the same current with less voltage sag. This prevent the low bat detection from tripping prematurely.
Batteries have one advantage over over supplies: extremely low noise. Even an good LDO will bump up the noise floor, and a cheap lcsc part will do so too. Plus you’s want a reasonably low dropout and quiescent current, which also increases price. Maybe 10ct in volume is reasonable for such a part - and yes, that will absolutely eat the margin
Don’t dry filament in the oven. Simply put the filament spool on the print bed, set it to 60°C (PLA) or 70°C (PETG) and cover it with a cardboard box to trap the heat. Poke 3 holes in the box to lead damp air escape. Let it cook for 2-4h, then flip the spool and wait for another 2-4h. Store in air tight container with some silica gel to keep it dry.
None of the high end chips were made in Chinese fabs, and the device barely qualifies as a “laptop” besides the form factor. For some bizarre reason they used a USB5744 USB 3.2 5Gb/s hub chip, which tells me the following:
Unless We get better close up tear down photos, this devices primary purpose is propaganda
There is a UFS-II specification and even a PCIe version specifically for micro SD cards. It was all planned out, and it would have been trivial to tell consumers: “Yo need card with more contacts as shown in picture”. But no, the biggest manufacturer of flash storage is samsung, and they decided they’d rather sell higher storage capacity phones as a premium. Easy to do when you’re the second biggest manufacturer of of phones and apple already paved the way.
Nice list. I chuckled at the fact that the bitcoin section does not recommend bitcoin :) We’re also here on lemmy, if you ever need help or just want to say hi
It’s worth it for the dry storage and automatic loading alone. Printing multiple objects one after another on the same bed and same print job, but with different materials is also a great feature and huge time saver for small parts. For actual multi-material prints the best use cases are imo writing into the first layer with a different color or using 2 different non-adhering materials for a thin layer between supports and the part. All of these things require very little filament changes and significantly improve the usage experience.
You are probably right, and I hate it.
LPCAMM seems more useful overall as a product.
Only if you need 2-4 sticks, otherwise they take up too much PCB space. Look at servers and how a good chunk of their volume is filled with dozens of sticks. You cant simply lay them down flat.
LPCAMM may have better specs, but DIMM requires a smaller area on the PCB and can make better use of the vertical space.
A slight heating is perfectly normal and nothing to worry about. A microwave is fine tuned to heat food, or more precisely the water within. Other materials such as the glass on the back of the phone also absorb some energy, but only a tiny fraction.
People joke about this all the time, and I here the sarcasm in your comment, but technology has come far since the iphone 6 or 7.
Most high end phones have wireless charging build it. Between the receiver coil and the rest of the phone is a thin sheet of ferrite material to prevent the electromagnetic field from getting to the sensitive electronics. Battery technology has also improved a lot, so much that even relatively cheap phones like the Realme GT Neo 5 charge at 150W!
From the technical perspective the limit is the cable and connector, because there would be too much losses that heat up the cable to dangerous levels and rapidly degrade the contact area in the connectors. Manufacturers don’t want to deal with this security risk, not the increased RMA rates within the mandated guarantee period, so they artificially limit the charging rate.
Thing is: You absolutely can charge at higher speeds if you bypass the cable altogether! A microwave outputs usually somewhere between 150W-1000W, so stick to the lower end to be on the safe side. The screen of the phone must face down, because the charging coil is placed on the back. You also must prevent overcharging by setting the timer correctly: If your phone battery has 15Wh capacity, and you are charging with 150W, you must at most charge for 1/10 of an hour, or 6 minutes (less if you are just topping up your phone).
One final note: fast charging does put increased wear on the battery, so I only recommend to use it when you need it, for example when you need to make a flight and are already running late.
The primary concern with fdm printed parts is bacteria growth in the gaps and cracks, which you cant really avoid. Some materials allow vapor smoothing, but the most popular candidates ABS and ASA are not food save, even if perfectly smooth.
For storing stuff that does not support bacteria growth (for sure salt, maybe tea bags and pepper) PETG is a good choice. Strong consistent layer adhesion enables water tight print. Its relatively chemically robust and will not chemically react with your food, and not leach out much if at all. It also means its mostly dishwasher safe, especially at low temperatures. You MUST have a properly tuned PETG profile to get a close to perfect surface with minimal defects. Burn of any stringing, otherwise it will end up as microplastic in your food.
For storing stuff that can spoil, the requirements are a lot higher, and the only option is coating with a food safe resin. You should research what is compatible with the printed plastic, and maybe avoid dishwasher or aggressive cleaners.