Last I hear OnePlus was on the verge of collapse. Not because of this, but because of the mismanagement since carl left. It will probably be absorbed into oppo soon enough https://www.androidheadlines.com/exclusive-oneplus-collapse.

Fusion works flawlessly for me in winapps (and I’m sure winboat), but it is s-l-o-w. I probably need to figure out GPU passthrough and it might be bearable… But I haven’t had much time to dedicate figuring it out.

I had similar issues tho on a custom designed printer. The issue ultimately was the adhesive for the silicone heater for the bed was failing ans slowly delaminating from the bed. When I felt the heater it was plenty warm… But when I felt the center of the bed where it prints it was a lot cooler. I had to replace the whole heat pad. I don’t know what yours uses to heat the bed but my guess would be that it is also on the way out.

Airvpn can generate a pure wireguard (or openvpn) config. No vendor specific GUI needed. I have several boxes using it and have had zero issues. Plus their support is awesome.

I don’t know. I’ve use this method several times and I’ve never had a problem. I probably should have specified that I’m in the states so 450° f versus 200 or 210° c that your printer runs at isn’t a huge difference. Sure. You run the risk of some fumes, but your printer is already belting the plastic. In that temperature. You need to go a lot hotter than 400° in order to set it on fire. It’s a lot safer than using a blowtorch

put them on a sheet of aluminum foil and put them on a cookie tray in your oven. set the oven to 450 degrees and bake it for a half hour plus. everything should melt out of it. you could even suspend it with a rolled up piece of foil under it. depending on the wires your thermistor may suffer but the heating element should be fine. tho, your thermistor probably will be okay too as it looks like it has silicone covering the wire.

I really like the orbiter 2.5. it’s not as light as the nimble but it is still tiny. I like that it is open source and they really have thought to put a bunch of engineering in to the gear workings instead of just using clone bonditech gears. It cost, like, 48 USD to get from AliExpress and is definitely high quality.

Thh Hero Me mount seamed like a good choice as well. It was a huge pain in the a$$ to assemble tho, not that I am complaining. The way it mounts to the carriage means you can’t just assemble and mount (at least with my old tronxy carriage plate). The included adapter design that comes in the file package didn’t quite work correctly and I didn’t realize that until I was all disassembled. There is a magnet mount version that would probably have been a better option. I’ll probably print one to have as a spare if I ever need to disassemble the mount. Other then the mounting tho I really like the design and thought that went into it by mediaman.

I’m sure they will blame the libs and the Democrats for it because they are the ones pushing for a bigger minimum wage. Without it, employer’s can collude to drive down wages, making higher paying alternative jobs non existent. Everything pays pennies!

It’s easy to get out of hand when modding your printer. When I first got my tronxy in 2017 or 2018 the only planned mod was to put a duet 2 clone in instead of the garbage chitu control board. But the extruder sucked as well. Clone slice mosquito fixed that. Then I realized the extruder drive had a 700mm Bowden to the print head, and I wanted to print fast, so I asked Santa (my wife) for a zesty nimble (this was years before the orbiter direct drive). I had 3 vslot wheels disintegrate in a week and voron was using a cheap but high quality linear rails so why not? Then I built a couple of industrial kit printers for a friend, modix and raise3d. They weren’t much more complicated then what I had, and I’m learning some cad so I designed a quad z system with rails and smooth rods like the modix. I had another fried edm machine part of the z sleds. It was so over engineered that I needed to put a bed worthy enough in top and that was the 400mm 3/8" thick tool plate. A heater to match, 400mm ac bed topped with 1/4’ borosilicate glass.

This took time over several years. I would grab my z motion control and publish it somewhere because it’s pretty simple but very effective.

Anyway… It has been a lot more fun and educational modding the printer then making silly doodads and fidget toys with it for sure.

Perfect! I will read through the site for some insight.

I didn’t change the extruder, I just changed the driving motor. There is the chance of backlash because of the way the drive cable works. I suppose it could be wearing out … or I am getting a lot of back pressure in the mot end causing it to slip. I plan on taking apart the nimble and replacing the bearings and relubing everything tonight or tomorrow. Plus a pid tube, if I am running too cold or something. Duet has changed their pid model several times and I haven’t retuned it in several firmware upgrades

There is the flex3drive… Pretty similar in design. They claim the number is a copy of their extruder. Dunno if it is or not.

I think the nimble never really caught on because of cost more then anything. Also it’s not ideal for an enclosed printer as the drive cable needs room to move. I just use it to support my wires and my reverse Bowden tube tho.

Each corner of the bed has a linear rod running up the clot, a lead screw in the middle, and then a had mounted 8 mm smooth rod on the other side.

My thought as well is I have a bent screw or something out of alignment but the bed feels like to moves without shifting back and forth.

Also, the frequency of the banding is different each time, even though I am printing with the same speed and settings each time.

I do have two different lead screw couplers on it (the spring style and the one with the rubber star in the center). I have the parts to make them all the same., so maybe I will give that a try and check my lead screws alignment at the same time.

Any recommendations on an anti-wobble nut that is printable or inexpensive?

Everything runs on linear rails, since it is corexy the y axis has two, the rail where the extruder rides has one, and the bed has 4 linear rails on each corner. I will hit them with some lube tomorrow and see if it helps.

I got the zesty nimble v2 as a Christmas present about 6 months after it came out and loved it right away. It is a remote direct drive extruder. It weights almost nothing and I can print pretty fast. Unfortunately zesty tech seems to have gone out of business. I had a beating on the worm gear go bad once… Maybe it has happened again as well… I think I have some extra beatings lying around so maybe I will swap them out again as well, in case it is getting hung up internally or something.

I will certainly give it a try!

Absolutely could. I use 400 steps per rev motors and believe I have tuned them correctly, all my prints are seemingly dimensionally accurate. A xyz calibration cube measures accurate with some dial calipers. But there is lots of suggestion on the search engine that I am having an issue with belt tension. I just don’t know where to start with figuring that out.

I do use a micrometer to measure, tho not a super .expensive one … I have found it to be pretty precise

The zesty nimble is crazy gear reduction. On 16x micro stepping on a 200 steps per rev you start tuning at 1800 steps per mm. The gear ratio is 30:1. Because of so many steps per mm I have my extruder motor running at 525 milliamps… It really does effect extrusion, per recommendations. I can go lower if I raise my printing temp but then I get stringing. Anyway…

I designed my own bed movement using 4 linear rails and z-screws and it was suggested to me that the spring couplets maybe causing the issue. I ordered 4 solid couplers to see if it is a backlash issue.

There is really no reason for your ender to stop functioning. 90% of it is off the shelf parts, and things like wiring harnesses and custom stuff are also available.

Simple: I’m just naturally deeply depressed and cynical, so there isn’t a big difference

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