This is correct, shrinking forces are fighting against bed ashesion. I use 60C and then drop it to 55 tho. On top of that you need clean bed and revisit first layer squish

After flatpak update everything is working fine! Thank you!

Hehe. I have been switching from nvidia to amd and back to nvidia. I guess next switch should be amd again

Thank you, Ill try that later

When you say last nvidia update, when was that? I had some updates few days ago and everything went smooth, but today things went south. Is there any way I can confirm Im having gpu driver issue or kernel issue or both?

You have to open qbittorrents console and run a curl command that contains a cookie from your MaM security settings. There is a guide in help&support -> api -> dynamic seedbox ip

I have tried my m3u IPTV on jellyfin and it sucks, just use TiviMate for android or VLC on PC

they don’t generally care about the pirated software

It feels like SolidSquad is working for Dassault lol. They want people to learn it so they can sell software to companies that makes money from it

I agree, its not even worth to try imo. Frame geometry is super important. Even extrusions can be painfull if they are not cut well enough. If you want the best result you should mill them (instead of cutting them with a saw).

3D printer tolerances are far from acceptable and then every material shrinks differently (+ there are many other disadvantages).

On the other hand, prusa and voron are examples of great use of 3D printed parts where you benefit from flex. Its a brave design decision that works amazingly well, but they can barelly print first layer without ABL or simmilar. Yeah…ABL compensates for shitty tolerances and we end up with bent 3D printed part that counts as perfect print lol

Thx for input.

I agree with you mostly, but there are also unfortunate examples even with big eu brand as well. Im not paranoid, but home 3D printer is more like production machine than kitchen appliance imo. They have moving parts and print failures happen sooner or later. Fire in a kitchen is not that rare it seems anyway.

Before reading comments, I wasnt aware that prusa is selling fire suppression system, but I guess there is a reason for that

I hook a filament around my neck before going to sleep. Every morning extruder pulls me out of the bed instead of using alarm. Don’t need a clock anymore and love to print in the morning anyway

Interesting comparison with water gun, but that would be equivalent of extruding in the air (even then I see it possible if the nozzle is not way too big). Think about connecting water pipe to a bigger diameter pipe. Water would fill the whole volume and it would just move slower if flow is laminar. There is also filament infront of the nozzle while printing so that should provide resistance (plus friction in the nozzle) to allow pressure build up. Nozzle shape might be important here, but I guess they just drilled 2.4 mm hole all the way through.

I obviously don’t know much about this nozzle, I’m not trying to teach anyone, I’m just having fun brainstorming and hopefully learning something new

Why doesn’t it just go through the center of the hole in the nozzle?

If you are asking about printing with bigger nozzle size than filament diameter, there should be positive pressure in all parts of hotend and filament is just moving slower where bigger cross section is. I don’t have experience with this kind of printing tho.

Btw, where did you find that nozzle is 2 mm? In video they mentioned printing 2 mm layer height, but that doesn’t define the nozzle size. You can print different layer widths and heights with the same nozzle. Good cross section is recommended for decent layer bond, but it looks like they are just laying the filament down with no squish.

For proper 2 mm layer height I guess we need 4 mm nozzle and 6 kg hotend/extruder lol

Only email was enough in my experience. Why would someone ask for more details

You already got a good answer about lowering temp and tuning retraction. Other than that, you have underextrusion there (gaps in the flat part on the build plate). I think you should extend your calibration:

Calibrate temp - flow - retraction

To reduce stringing you want:

• lower temp
• higher retraction
• faster travel speed

Be careful with first two, if you go too far you might get a clog. Sometimes its just better to accept some stringing, but since you are at 215 I bet it can be improved quite easy

Check academia.edu

I have never used it, but seems like my uni is uploading there. Im getting emails when someone is reading my article