And guess what, the company I work in proudly announced today they will replace our internal chatbot with ChatGpt Enterprise. It’s like they gladly and actively increase their dependency on an enemy state.

Not true. 500Mb models suck ass and are just here for fun. A lot of local models in the 2.5Gb range can run on a phone and produce very coherent output on par with free-to-use LLMs without actually destroying the planet (while using them I mean, training is still a nightmare).

“Fun” fact, political bias is baked in the local models too, don’t ask Qwen3 about what happened in Tiananmen Square in 1989…

Ah shame, I did a quick simulation and shipping rates + taxes would more than double the cost.

Ah damn. Although if your local manufacturer ships to the rest of Europe, I’d be happy to try it out ;)

That’s a very low price. Is it quality filament ? Have any links ?

Thanks !

Yeah the most valuable skill when designing parts is to learn how to design for the process. Print orientation should be decided in the earliest stage so as to maximize strength where it counts, reinforcements to compensate for layer lines weakness should be baked in. FDM prints behave like wood: strong across the grain, weak through the grain.

If it wasn’t for the groove, my first advice would have been to redesign the part so it could be printed sideways.

Yeah sure.

Something like that:

The triangular cross section would be much easier on the printer.

There are a few major issues with your design that we could fix to make it work.

• your feet connect to the frame at a right angle. You’re concentrating all the forces on a single layer line that would easily fail. Spread the forces by adding a fillet between the feet and the frame
• your vertical and free standing parts are waaaaay too thin. From empirical observation, I’d say anything free standing under 5mm thickness is guaranteed to fail. You could easily add strength by using a triangular or U-shaped cross section. Not only the part will be much more rigid and solid, but also more stable while printing. Think I-beams or U-beams vs. flat stock in construction, with the added issue of the massive anisotropy of FDM fabrication.
• As others have said, if you absolutely want to keep it thin, print the frame separately from the feet flat on the back so the forces are perpendicular to the layers. A V-shaped groove will print without supports. 45degs will be fine, depending on your printer you might event get away with shallower angles.
• if you want to keep it as a single part, you might consider printing it at 45 degrees from vertical. Layers would have much more surface area compared to the current flimsy ones, and you might even not need as much bulk as vertical printing. Most usual forces would be spread at 45 degrees too, which, while not ideal, would be much more solid than parallel from them.

Yeah this one is much more recent.

https://github.com/seapear/AffinityOnLinux

There’s a Wine fork tweaked especially for Affinity that works amazingly well.

I mean, could you trust a company that created a Linux container subsystem for Windows and named it Windows Subsystem for Linux to name things correctly?

Have you tried recalibrating the probe? I had the same issue with my Sovol SV08 where no matter how much I tried, nothing would stick, until I recalibrated it.

Also, how long do you preheat before printing? Depending on the beds material things can move quite a bit with heat. Sometimes 0.01mm can make the difference between a successful and a failed print. Try heat soaking your bed and nozzle at working temperature for at least 1/2h before calibrating and printing to give time to everything to expand.

TinkerCAD is ok for simple shapes and basic functional parts. It works by adding or subtracting simple shapes together (cubes, cylinders etc) to make more complex shapes. It’s quick, easy and instinctive but anything slightly more complex than a dozen shapes grouped together and/or iterative designs quickly become a time consuming nightmare. It’s like trying to format a magazine in Word.

FreeCAD (or Fusion, OnShape, SolidWorks or any “serious” CAD software) use a parametric workflow. You start with a technical drawing by setting shapes, dimensions, angles and relationships (“constraints”), extrude or revolve this shape to create a solid, then continue by drawing another sketch on a face and adding more constraints, extruding this sketch, then… you get it. It has a much steeper learning curve, but once understood it’s much quicker and easier to build very complex shapes. Plus iterative designs are usually a breeze since everything is constrained together, so changing any dimension or angle in any sketch means the whole design will follow. It’s also trivial to add chamfers, filets, working with mirror and central symmetry etc. When designing functional parts, parametric design is the proper tool for the job.

Bluey. Well, not my childhood but my daughter loves it. It’s adorable, educational, relatable and super positive. And can hit you right in the feels.

I moved my Fedora SSD from an Intel 8th gen laptop to an AMD Zen4 laptop with 0 issue and 0 config. So… you’re probably fine.

Any one of the uBlue projects is perfect for this use case.

KDE: https://getaurora.dev/
Gnome: https://projectbluefin.io/
Gaming: https://bazzite.gg/

Install and setup once, run forever. Immutable so impossible to break for a non-tech user, no package upgrades fuck-ups because updates are atomic and don’t touch the currently running system, are done in the background and are completely invisible for the user, great hardware support, based on Fedora. Regular users can only install Flatpaks through the App Store.

The only “maintenance” needed is a weekly reboot to move to the latest OS image.

As a personal feedback, I moved my gadget enthusiast but tech illiterate father on Bluefin. He can ruin a Mac in less than a few months. He can generate undocumented bugs on iOS by his mere presence. He hasn’t touched the terminal in his life. But somehow, Bluefin is still running perfectly after a year and a half. That’s how robust it is.

As a side note, passwords are extremely useful for basic security, and a password less life is extremely dangerous. The fact that you need to input a password tells you that you’re doing something that requires extra care and attention.

If you’re lucky to have a fingerprint reader that supports Linux (extremely rare unfortunately), you can get away with typing your password once at login and using your fingerprint for everything else.

This. Migrating my father to Bluefin was absolutely eventless. Except the 8 hours of fighting over passwords. Because I’m supposed to know all his passwords, apparently.

Fuck fascist governments.

Seriously tho if you know a free image hosting site that doesn’t geo block (most of them seem to do because of fucking morons passing idiotic laws), I’m all ears

Yeah by far, although I don’t consider it part of the build.

I actually started this build with a Thrustmaster T300RS in mind, but it took so long I upgraded to a Moza R9 partway 😅

Thanks!